Production of binding for book at home: Required materials and step-by-step instructions

Each home library owner will certainly have several favorite publications, which he has read more than once and reread. Frequent appeal to books does not add "Health" to them - replete bounds, pages are polluted.

The book loses its original gloss, but it does not lose its attractiveness. And now the moment comes when the owner of the publication wants to restore him, and then the question is how to make a binding for the book with your own hands, becomes relevant.

Production of bookbinding book at home

Books are different - usual multi-page editions in solid crankhorov or in soft bindings, homemade, printed on the printer, handwritten. And the bindings are different - stitched or glued, soft folders, folders - depending on whom and how the book was produced.

Required tools for the manufacture of binding for the old book do it yourself

Required tools for the manufacture of binding for the old book do it yourself

But sometimes you need to make a binding of the book with your own hands, and for such that the binding was, but it became unusable. The quality of such a binding will be slightly lower than that professionally performed on special equipment, but it will be your brainchild, made with love, and designed as you want.

Before proceeding with work, you will need to prepare the appropriate tools and materials for binding of books with your own hands:

  1. White paper sheets or tracing Format A4, in the amount of 32 pieces;
  2. Book glue or PVA glue;
  3. glue pistol;
  4. corrugated cardboard;
  5. marker;
  6. leather, felt, fabric (any material suitable);
  7. Stapler with long shoulder;
  8. Dense rubber ring for fixing paper;
  9. acute knife or scalpel;
  10. Metal ruler;
  11. Large stationery clips.

Prepare all the materials and tools, you can start collecting the hardcover of the book with your own hands.

Solid Binding of the Book Your Hands - Step-by-step instructions

First of all, four solid blocks should be made. 32 sheet paper (tracing) divide into four parts, eight sheets in each. Thoroughly align sheets in each pack, and carefully recycle each pack in half.

Go to your fingers in the collar to fix it. Take over all four stacks and turn them over to the opposite side.

Stapler with a long shoulder to bore an octastic stack along the fold line. If there is no stapler with a long shoulder, you can use the usual stapler.

In the case of the application of a standard stapler, the pages should be copped with both external and the inner side. Cut a piece of fabric equal to the size of the sheet height.

Choosing a cloth for binding work, you need to keep in mind that the fabric should be dense and thick. A large stationery clip or rubber ring fasten the sheets of stacks. Put a stack vertically on the side, and put glue on the upper side.

Solid binding manufacturing scheme for old book

Solid binding manufacturing scheme for old book

When applying glue, you must carefully follow so that it does not get intoward, between the sheets.

On the side to attach a carved piece of fabric. It must be done before dried down the glue.

To fit the sizes of the stack under the size of the book, it should, if necessary, carefully trim the scalpel on the metal line. Put a stack on the cardboard, mark the circuit marker on the cardboard, retreating five millimeters for each edge.

Cut cardboard and make some more such copies. Separately prepare a cardboard rectangle under the size of the end of the book.

All cardboard parts lay out on the fabric. Stand on the border tissue with a width of 25 millimeters and cut the material.

Apply glue to cardboard, and put it on the fabric - a crust - the face - crust. Between all the details there must be an equal interval.

What's next?

Next you need to smear the edges of the fabric and sequentially glue them to the cardboard. Then to the sides close to the end cardboard, glue two strips of cotton paper and apply glue on them.

To put a text block on the end card. It will not stick to the end cardboard, but only to paper stripes.

While the glue will dry, you need to fix the design in a vertical position. Actually, on this, the manufacture of solid binding can be considered completed.

Fastening a book in grinding books for binding

Fastening a book in grinding books for binding

Cosmetic work remained. First of all - the substrate. You need to choose the appropriate paper, lubricate the inner side of the solid cover and the first sheet of the text block.

This operation should be done on both sides. In this example, a tissue was used for solid binding.

But you can also make a binding for a book from felt with your own hands. A little more difficult because of the invoice, but the leather binding of the book is made on the same technique.

Soft binding for a book with your own hands - how to make

Unlike solid, make a mild cover with their own hands much easier.

Required tools for making soft binding for book at home

Required tools for making soft binding for book at home

For its manufacture, you will need tools and materials that are used to repair book bindings with their own hands:

  • marker;
  • cutter;
  • glue;
  • glue pistol;
  • dense (glossy) cover paper;
  • line;
  • clamps;
  • Two boards;
  • iron;
  • scissors.

Prepare everything you need can be started.

Making soft binding

The embroidered text unit should be smoothly put on the board and carefully align the edges for a ruler. On top and bottom of the text block, put on a clean sheet of page pages format.

The edges of these leaflets that perform the functions of the drafts are leveled under the ruler. From above on the text unit gently put the second board, watching not the moves of individual parts and leaves.

Making sure that the text block lies between the boards smoothly, clamp the design of the clamps. The text block is fitted between the boards so that approximately half acemeter the root is free, outside the boards.

With the help of adhesive gun, apply a thick layer of glue on the root. The layer thickness should be from two to three millimeters.

Soft Binding Making Algorithm for Book

Soft Binding Making Algorithm for Book

The glue layer should be uniform, so it should be quickly dissolved either by the pistol itself or a piece of smooth plastic. This operation should be done quickly so that the glue does not have time to grab.

The next stage is the preparation of the cover. Initially, the thickness of the text block is measured.

From the axial line of the cover sheet to postpone left and right at half the measured thickness of the root. To spend two straight lines parallel to the axial.

Add one more centimeter on each side. Putting on the resulting line a ruler, carefully bend the cover of the cover.

For consolidation, it should be safely spent several times with a stupid side of the scissors along the fold line. After the glue is dry, gently separate the sheets-drafts.

Insert the glued text block into the cover and secure the brackets. Install the iron work surface up, turn it on and warm it well.

It is evenly to warm the root until the cover is reliably glued to it. Final operation - cropping covers from three sides under the format of the text block.

Conclusion

The described methods are the simplest, but not the only ones. Using these ways, you can shelter your hands the binding of leather books.

If your library has dilapidated editions in both solid and soft bindings, then the described methods can make a complete restoration of books of books with their own hands.

Video: how to make a book binder

Small joining

Recently, a few articles appeared on Habré about how it can be convenient to read technical and fiction. Hot controversy flared on electronic readers and methods of printing the desired material.

In my article I would like to in more detail on questions about the print itself (how to make this process quick and convenient) and the manufacture of books from available materials.

Big joining

Some time ago I wanted to read the cycle of Douglas Adams "Hitchhikeh in the Galaxy". I tried to read several translations and did not suit me. Therefore, it was decided to read in English! Find these books in the original in our bookstores is quite difficult. And if there is, then only the first part of the cycle. Electronically find some easier. But I prefer to read from paper (I must buy a reader on E-ink - I like it), so I print books.

The first two books looked like this:

Synthetic glue;

I read them with great pleasure, but they looked not very good. And I decided that Life, The Universe, and Everything "You need to make a book.

Process with pictures and comments under the cut. Caution, really many pictures.

Print

It would seem that it may be easier to printed a book? But there are some important points.

First, you need to choose the right paper. All paper that is produced by an industrial method on the CBK has a clearly pronounced direction of the fibers. Only printers are available to the absolute majority of readers that can print no more A4 format on sheets. Almost all paper of this format (I tried about 20 stamps) has the direction of the fibers along the long side (the short-k-short-side is much worse than the long-to-long). Try yourself and immediately understand what we are talking about. We are also ideally needed that the fibers are along the short side. Unfortunately, the packaging of ordinary office paper on this parameter is not marked. Of those 20 grades, everyone was "unsuitable." Taken in quotes because the result is not much worsening, and I believe that if you do not have the right paper, it does not make sense and print on the one that is.

Secondly, pages on bookstones are not in order.

We will make a classic book. This means that in each notebook of the book block we will have 16 pages of A5-4 format A4 sealing on both sides and bent in half.

We start with creating a layout. I used OpenOffice Writer (hereinafter - OOO). Select the desired headset and font box, set the fields, number the pages. Please note that Kell should be more desirable. A little later will understand why. We save and export to PDF.

OOW does not know how to print pages in random order. That is, if you set the numbers of the pages 16 and 1, then it will first print the first page, and then sixteenth. But Foxit Reader, which I use to view and work with PDF, does everything as needed. In the printer settings, select the landscape orientation of the sheet, and the FoxitReader print settings are two pages on one sheet. Here we use an increased font size, because the real page size will decrease.

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Page numbers are very convenient to calculate in the table editor.

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Each two lines indicate the procedure for printing pages of one notebook. First, print one side (8 pages), then turn the paper and print the second side.

Calculator can be taken

I have.

Print more than one notebook can be risky at a time. First you need to figure out the features of the paper feed on a specific printer. Yes, and then work with notebooks. So print one notebook - our choice.

Collect book block

That's what we did:

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In my case, this is 8 notebooks.

There are many ways to make binding and stitching a book block, I will talk about those who use himself.

Let's proceed.

First you need to bend the notebook in half. Here we would especially use sheets with the right direction of fibers. You can bend each sheet individually, and you can - notebook (4 sheets) entirely. I prefer the second option. It seems to me that so the notebook turns out to be more solid. A spoon on the previous photo was not left of the lunch - it is very convenient for it to press the fold line.

Synthetic glue;Synthetic glue;

Further step is desirable, but not required. It would be nice to hold the bent edge of all notebooks in a special press. But without fanaticism, otherwise there is a risk of remember notebooks.

Synthetic glue;Synthetic glue;

While the notebook under the press, we need to place a template for piercing holes. Take a piece of cardboard. We indicate the edges (210 mm - on the sheet format). For sewing a book block, we will use a 5 mm wide ribbon. In order for the bookk block to be very strong, we will sew it into three tapes. The distances between the holes under the tape take 6-7 mm. And by hole at a distance of 10 mm from the edge. In the picture, everything is clearly visible.

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Look for the collapse every notebook.

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Purify the sewing hole from the inside. That's what we get outside.

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Big pieces of tape and glue them at the desired distance from each other with scotch. Glue to the most edge of the table. So the most convenientness.

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What a notebook (from the first or last) start - no matter. The main thing is not to confuse their order. The pages are needed to closely. Otherwise you have to redo. I want to immediately noticate that until the gluing of the book block we can change everything that we want.

Here you can take a break, relax a little. Because the sewing block is a very important part of the build of the book.

Sew! For sewing, I use threads for embroidery. They are strong, obedient, multicolored, quite thick and they are very easy to find. Have you ever seen a book stitched with a lilac thread? I also did not see. That is why we take a bright. Independence is one of the reasons for all this.

Synthetic glue;

The use of cargo is very desirable. Notebooks will not ride one relatively different.

Ribbons are squeezed outside.

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So we almost sewed two notebooks. Fit the thread by the usual double knot.

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With the third and to the last notebook, fix the thread in this way.

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The last notebook is reinforced by the node.

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Our book block is almost ready!

Synthetic glue;Synthetic glue;Synthetic glue;

We use either such a clamp, like me, or the usual heavy weight from above.

Fix the unit so that the edge spoke a little. Issuate the PVA glue (the stationery is quite suitable). The glue must be quite a bit, exactly so much so that it penetrates a little bit between the notebooks. And clamp under load so that the notebooks glue. It is not necessary to delay much.

Synthetic glue;Synthetic glue;

Next we glue the mousets. If we used the usual office paper for print, then for forges, it is necessary to use dense, from 130 g / m2. Floats will combine binding and a book block into one.

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It is important here that everything is completely dried. While dries, we need to get ready for trimming the block.

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Old plastic folder, slice of laminate, clamp and knife. If you have the same knife, be sure to change the blade in the freshest. The knife should be very sharp. No, not sharp, but sharp. Fully dried block climb the way it is shown in the photo. Davim all weighing on the edge of the laminate, where the knife is. Cutting the edge with clear movements. 3-4 sheets per pass. It is impossible to relax, otherwise the block "leaves". The first time may not work carefully. And, I'm afraid that without such a design it will be difficult to do. Simple ruler do not hold. If there are friends in the printing house, then you can ask them to trim on the guillotine.

Synthetic glue;Synthetic glue;

Here is such a beauty turned out.

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The next step is the completion of the book block assembly. First we stick to the end of the gauze layer. It is also good to use the filter paper. The goal is to reinforce the end so that the book serve for a long time.

Synthetic glue;

To protect the corners of the book block, you need to stick in captual. These are pieces of tape, which has one edge thicker than the other. You can stick a little more than you need. Then doinched.

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We leave everything to dry.

We make binding

For binding we will need two cards. In size, they must be several millimeters more on each side than the cropped book block. Binding cardboard can be bought in art stores (there it is true, they break quickly) or you can disassemble the archive folder. I did it. Strictly speaking, these cards remained from one of the previous bindings.

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This time I decided to make binding with the cloth. For the first time you can (yes, and you need) take a piece of old wallpaper. It will be beautiful and everything is wonderful. If you decide to take a fabric, do not forget to stroke it.

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Between thick cards is a strip of thin cardboard. It will be the end of the book. The distance between them is 4-5 mm. For reliability, we glue the middle of the design paper with the filter paper. The fabric is placed. The cardboard is glued to the fabric.

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Next, wrap and sample the edges. Everything should be good. We do not neglect the press.

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The binding is ready!

Collect a book

Oddly enough, it is one of the most simple stages.

Tracing the book block and binds to each other. We celebrate the best position.

Between the bends of the mall, we insert the sheets of clean paper so that the glue does not disk. We rinse the mullets of the faucet and the cover. We use a brush so that there are no dry places.

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We do the same operation and on the other hand.

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We put a book under cargo.

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After a couple of hours, we take out and give a completely dry.

Our book is ready.

Synthetic glue;Synthetic glue;Synthetic glue;

We read, get pleasure and remember the main rule "DON'T PANIC!"

Mai Ashipki

Or what could be done differently so that the result was better.

I took too light and loose fabric. It would be darker and more tightly.

Footman turned out in folds.

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I poured too much glue. And I was not densely dense. Ideally, only traces of ribbons were visible to which the block was sewn.

The first pages from the exterior edge went a little wave. This is due to the large amount of glue and due to the direction of the fibers.

Conclusion

Of course, it would be easier to simply print and read. Or read from the screen. But I just like the process of creating a book. You can choose a font, paper, binding paper, and not to use what the publisher will offer. It turns out a unique book. This is from my point of view, one big plus.

By minuses include sufficient consideration. For one book I went almost all day.

And I apologize for the uneven quality of the photo. Lighting has changed much during the day.

Quote Messages Galina_andreyevna_555 How to cross the book (hardcover).

This is an article from the site "Country on the contrary" Author, Elena Fedoseev.

durable threads;

Why merge the books? Well, for example, you wrote a novel or a collection of poems and want to give them friends, but you have no money to the printing house. Or downloaded the favorite book from the Internet and want to have it not only in electronic form, but also in the usual paper.

gauze tissue or starchy coal;

I faced the problem of solid binding when a local history collection IM has prepared for the press Ulyanova (two-volume) and wanted to print it in the printing house at his own expense, no more than 50 copies. The collection had a large number of color pictures, and it turned out that it would be unnecessarily expensive. Then I decided to print it myself - at home, on your own laser printer. The cost of printing turned out to be quite acceptable and I successfully printed the first few copies, intending to give them into the binding to a professional binding workshop. The binding I wanted certainly solid, necessarily with a super bind so that the book looks beautiful. It turned out, however, that the cost of solid binding exceeds the cost of printing, and then I had to think. All together (printing + binding) It turned out too expensive ...

Colored paper.

Preparation for binding work  

The output was one - intertwined the most. After listening to the tips of the husband, in childhood had a set "Young Twister", and finding a couple of articles on the Internet (who turned out to be the experience, not too good), I began to work. The first pancake turned out to be a com (the articles found some essential details were not reflected), but the second turned out to be quite durable and beautiful, at least I was quite pleased with the result.

Binding production at home begins with preparatory work.First of all, the book must be disconnected to separate parts (notebooks): Remove the binding cover from the block, separate the cover, carefully process the root from the resulting glue, then carefully, without disrupting the integrity of the sheets from the rootbook, remove the old connected threads or brackets .. Books that you can do yourself.

By separating the top cover of the binding, you need to open the tissue strip as carefully with a knife, which served to bind the binding with the root of the book. The next step will be the inspection of sheets and restoration work.Operating procedureOf course, it is impossible to achieve typographic quality at home (the biggest problem - with cropping edges), but if you need a book not for sale, but as a gift option (as it was in my case) or for home use, it is quite suitable. In addition, the "gift" can be emphasized by playing with the color of the cover and its design - the expanser for fantasy here is a lot.

After the preparatory work, you can proceed to the manufacture of individual elements of the book and their bonding, as well as the procedure for finishing the binding.The hardcover turned out to be a matter of very interesting, simple and surprisingly cheap (it remains only to be surprised why he is so expensive in binding workshops), accessible to everyone and a man, and a woman, and a child. Neither special equipment, nor expensive tools, nor the place - everything can be done on the kitchen or writing desk, using almost the "rented" means. I want to share here my experience, maybe he will come in handy to anyone.

1st stage: design rootThe sheets of the disassembled book are folded into the stack in the desired order, respectively, the numbering, equal to the root. The edges of the sheets should be even, their protrusion is unacceptable. After that, the stack is clamped between two boards, while the root must act about five millimeters. Next, on the roots of folded notebooks, it is done with the help of a jigsaw or hacksaws three dug in two millimeters depth.Required tools:

Prepared gauze tissue is cut for one centimeter less than the root size, and the width is four centimeters more, with the calculation of two centimeters on both sides. The use of fabric will ensure the strength and long-lasting book service.

1. Two boards

2. Two clamps

Following this, the spine is lubricated with liquid consistency glue for better impregnation of propils and distances between sheets. After that, slices of threads are stacked in the feeds so that they act beyond the root of about two or three centimeters. And in completion, the root is re-covered with a layer of glue and leaves for a few hours to dry.

2nd stage: the main process of bindingAs a rule, begin to sew from the first notebook. It is placed between two boards on the bottom cloth down the face. The needle is introduced into the extreme slot from the outside inside the notebook, it is left outside the edge of the thread of about five centimeters. Next, the needle is inserted from the inside into the outdoor cut, making a loop and returning inside the notebook.3. Metal Pilka

Similar manipulations are done through the second and the third propyl. The released needle from the last dutched of the stitched block is introduced into the parallel slot of the second notebook. In the same way, all the others are sewn, only in the opposite order.

After finishing the firmware of the second notebook, the needle with the thread is connected with the end of the thread of the first block. Next - similar to previous actions.4. Tassel for glue

In order to reliability, the threads in the lines of sewn parts are inserted at the points of their entry and exit. Then they are trimmed, and the root of the stitched block is wedged with glue and placed under load.Footshades are glued behind the drying of the glue, without them, the connection of the binding block is impossible. Floats are attached to the extreme leaf of the first notebook and the last sheet of the final part of the finished book block.5. Scissors

What is the forced s? This is a tight leaf folded in half, the fold of which must correspond to the spin of the root. The length should coincide with the height of the main unit, and the width is to be equal to double the size of the notebook. For fastening the glue is applied along the entire length of the root bend of the mouse and connects with the root of the book. Drying time is two to three hours and preferably under the press.3rd Stage: Cover Design6. Paper knife

In the manufacture of binding covers of thick paper (cardboard), two binding crusts are cut, equal to the width of the book, and the upper and lower boundaries must have a height of four to six mm.Another part of the cover is manufactured - the root, the height of which should be equal to the height of the cardboard covers, and the width is not exceeding the thickness of the book block. It can be made of less tight paper of another color, about six to eight cm wide than a book and four to five cm longer.Necessary materials:

The gluing is performed as follows: the glue is applied on one side of the lid and the root, they are pressed. Then the angular edges of the paper are cut down diagonally with an indentation of four mm from the angle, and the peeled edges are labeled with glue, bend onto the lids and pressed with the press.PVA glue.

The issue of registration can be solved with the help of binding paper, glossy or "marble", in the case of no such, you can use conventional colored paper. The paper is cut into account with the size of the binding covers plus two cm for bends from three sides. The finished cover is pasted on the cover of the binding. The curves are curved on the edges of the lids and glued on the inside.Starting to glue the book block and the cover, it is necessary to make fitting, for this, the block fit into the cover so that all its edges coincide in size, and notes on the corners of the forges. Then one edge of the fabric is covered with glue and glued to the bell. Next, it together with the fabric is soaked neatly glue, turn over this side down, glued to the cover, with the assessment of the edge with the markers made. In the same way, the book is attached to the second cover of the binding.Thick white threads or not too thick white rope.

For the complete completion of the entire procedure from the outer part of the binding, the blunt item is deepened, for better fit of the fabric root to the Cardboard slice. It will give an opportunity without any difficulty to open a book.

After completion, the book is placed under the press. A few hours later, she will be ready.

Material type gauze, but tougher. It can be bought in the "Fabric" store - similar material is used to strengthen the sides of the jackets, and the like. Marley is also suitable, but it is difficult to cut smoothly.

Cardboard (any color) - for a rigid cover. Cardboard must be very dense and almost negligent. If such a cardboard is hard to buy, you can use the usual, but then it is necessary to glue it into two or three layers.

Colored paper (for covers). Paper will suit any. The best is not too thin and not too thick, let's say something mean between the watman and wrapping paper (by density).

How to quickly cross the book?

Mateled roller for the root. This is the most problematic (in terms of purchase) an element. Look at the root of any purchased book in solid binding, and you will see what you need. Buy it, however, is difficult. At first, for the absence of a roller, I used just a braid with a similar can be from the "Fabric" store. Then I managed to buy what you need in a specialized store, but it was not so easy to find it. This item is purely decorative, closing what remains inside the root, so in principle you can do without it.

Spine with roller; Strips with roller bought in a specialized store.

Before starting work, look carefully how any store book is done in hardcover, try to look inside the root to have an idea of ​​how your book should look like. For the first time I advise you to try on "waste" so that it was not sorry to throw away. The second instance can be done already raid.

Step No. 1.

One of the simple and less labor-intensive methods of manufacturing binding at home is the adhesive binding. Procedure:

The printed book is placed on the board.

So, you have a thick stack of printed pages. The format of them can be any (in my case - A5). Now you need to level the edge as much as possible. You can align, tapping with different sides of the stack of a smooth table, watching no page to be pulled out. Especially needed to monitor the left and upper edges - where the root will be, and the one that will be visible when the book stands on the shelf. Two other edges are not so important.

Align the sheets using the ruler.

When the edges have become quite smooth, very carefully (in order not to knock them down) put the stack on the table or on the board (so as not to get the table with glue), the root to myself, so that the edge of the stacks is slightly braked outside the table (then it is more convenient to smear it ). From above very carefully (again, so as not to bring down the edges) put some temporary cargo, say, the book. Then thick smear the plow glue root and give a slightly dry (2-3 minutes enough).

Fixed sheets between boards, fix and tighten with clamps, leaving five millimeters root abroad.

Glue the root.

You can, of course, print a book from "Tetradok", how is done in printing houses - most printers it allows. But then there are two problems.

Cover design. The thickness of the root is measured, in the process of the cover markup, its width plus two cm is taken into account (one by one see both sides).

Formation of the book. The glued spine is embedded in the cover and fastened with brackets, successed.

It will be necessary to sew each notebook manually, which will take time, especially if the book is fat and in each, say, 20 notebooks (in one notebook usually 16 sheets).

The final stage. Cutting a book block from three sides.

In general, overwhelm the book is not so difficult, as it may immediately seem. And if you master the technique, you can make a nice gift, such as a notebook or weekly.

It will be necessary to cut the edges, because In notebooks they will never be smooth. My experience has shown that smoothly cut the edge at home is almost impossible, so I stopped on printing with individual sheets - the edges then look much better. The binding is obtained quite strong, it will not "break", and practically does not "eat" the left field (so that when printing the left and right fields can be left identical).

When glue slightly drop and move the pack is no longer so scary, take off the temporary cargo and carefully shifted the future book a little further from the edge of the table or the board so that the root no longer hung. Top put on the second board (so that the root is not branded, but it was pressed from above), tightly pinch all two clamps and leave for a few hours to dry. (It is believed that completely PVA glue dries in 12 hours, but at this stage there will be 3-4 hours). This initial gluing is necessary in order to make it easier to cut - so that the packs of sheets are stronger than keeping together and would not move.

Step number 2.

Remove the clamps and again shift the pack and boards to the edge of the table again, so that the boards protrude beyond the edge of the centimeter table 3 (so that it is not to cut the table with a lacaround), and the edge of the paper stack drove to the edge of the boards by 2 millimeters. Clear all clamps. Place a pencil sticking edge to smooth intervals (I do 2 cm). In places marking a sawmill for a metal, they make the separations of 1 mm deep. Watch that the feeders are smooth and strictly perpendicular to the root.

image.

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Now we need glue, brush and rope. The rope is inserted into the propulsion, the thickness of it should be such that it is in the propellants pretty tight. If you use threads, they must be twisted at 5-6 times. Rope, if too thick, can be broken into parts. Duties and rope are needed to strengthen the root - they hold it quite firmly and the root is not "rehearsed", as often happens in glued shopping books. Without this, your book can just fall apart.

At this stage, you need to have a predetermined gauze and rollers. Marla Cry so: the length should be 1 cm less than the length of your root. The width is equal to the width of the root + 2 cm along both edges. If, say, your root 21 x 2 cm, then the march should be 20 x 6 cm. The rollers need two, the width of each equal to the width of the root.

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We must still have a strip of paper, which passes on the root on top of gauze and rollers, so as not to smear the hands with glue, smoothing gauze to the root. This paper can be any, it will not be visible. I use ordinary brown wrapping paper. Its dimensions in length - by 7-8 mm less than the root length, and the width is equal to the width of the root.

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When everything is ready, start the process:

Gustly smear the flames of the root with the propuls, following the adhesive glue into each cut. Insert into each sheltered rope (I also smear them with glue), so that the ends stick them to 2-3 cm. For protruding ends, pull up the ropes so that they sat tightly in the propil. Again, smear everything with glue and stick gauze, then rollers. All this is on the outside. Again with glue and stick a strip of paper, smoothing it to the root, so that everything is going together. In this form, everything must be left overnight to dry well.

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Stage number 3 (next day)

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The internal block of the future book is ready. Remove the clamps, cut the unnecessary ends of the rope with a knife.

Forzatsy

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Further will be done by fors. They must be of dense watman paper, because They carry half of the structural load - it is on them (and on marl) and the cover is held. (They, by the way, can be colored, not necessarily white). If your book is A5, then the forged A4 format, folded in half. It is necessary to cut it out a little bit, because From the side of the root, the ends of the ropes face, they will interfere with the walls of the mow. (Cutting them absolutely no longest). When the forboat is complicated, expect for the book and cut, squeeze the strip of the strip in the fold (3-4 mm) and stir on the block. Then turn the book, and get another. Leave under the press at least half an hour, but for now you can do the cover.

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Cover

First we cut cardboard. This is a solid base of the cover, consists of three separate parts - two identical to the size of the crustaceans and the root. Corks should be at a height of 8 mm higher than the height of your glued block (so that on each side stick to 4 mm), and in width - are equal to the block. Those. If your A5 format block, i.e. 21 x 14.8 cm, then the sizes of crusts 21.8 x 14.8 cm. The spine in height should be equal to crusts (21.8 cm in the case of A5), and in width - equal to the thickness of your block. It may be of a thinner cardboard.

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You choose the paper suitable color, reproducing it:

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In height, it should be beyond the limits of cardboard crusts by 2-3 cm on each side. In width (dance from the middle): the width of the root + 8 mm interval on each side, + the width of the cardboard crusts on each side + 2-3 cm on each side (see photo). On the inside of the paper, it would be nice to make marking, it makes it easier for layout.

Next is gluing. Mashae glue one side of the crusts and the root, stick, press. Diagonal cut the edge of the paper (with an indent 3-4 mm from the angle). Majet glue protruding edges, bend them on crusts, press. At this stage, the cover is better to leave at least an hour. In principle, the cover is ready.

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Then the question arises its design. Even if a superstar is planned, then the author's name and name (or in my case, the volume number) should still be written on the cover and on the root. How to do it? Not everyone, even architects, can absolutely make the inscription manually. I tried to write on a stencil, but it turns out inactively. The solution has come such: to print a somewhat modified dust jacket with the author and volume number, and then stick. Just, but it looks, from my point of view, quite decent.

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We stick up a printed name on the cover. It is better to do it with pencil marking - that the inscription on the root is in the center, and nothing would come anywhere. Cover is ready.

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Next comes not difficult, but the responsible moment is to glue together the internal unit and the cover. This moment requires great accuracy, so the fitter is first needed. Insert the block into the cover, so that the edges of the cover are sticking out evenly, and at the corners of the forboats necessarily make a pencil mark.

Majet glue one edge of gauze, stick to the mow. Now smear the whole of the mourning with the gauze. In order for the excess adhesive to do not glue the pages, a sheet of paper can be paved inside the mouse. Raise the book (the cover is lying on the table), turn over the smeared by the mouse down and glue the floor to the cover, starting from the edges - combining the edges of the mousetz with pencil marks.

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We put the book on the table (glued part of the down) and smear the glue by gauze on the other side, stick to the mow, then smear the whole second forzatc. My experience has shown that on the most convenientness simply to "put" the cover on the atmosphere, without raising the book. Usually, in this way the edge of the mouse is the smaller of all combined with pencil marks, but still need to be checked whether the corners are combined, and if not, then until the glue is dry, align them.

By the root, you can spend wooden lecturers (or just an angle of the plastic line), but carefully not to break the paper. It gives the root "sharpness".

Now you need to put a book under the press for the whole night so that it is good.

By morning your book is fully ready. Superobica is just a sheet of paper (sized it easily). The only moment you need to take into account - to make the final design of the superstar, after the first solid binding is ready - only then you will know exactly the size of your book. (When the format of the A5 pages and the height of the cardboard crusts is 21.8 mm, the super binding height is exactly 22 cm (paper that is covered with cardboard, also gives thickness). When the format of the book A5, the length of the superobrian is a little more than A3. I print it on two sheets A4 (paper needs good quality) and gluing from the inside scotch. On the sides (which will be bent into the inside) THINKING the white stripes to the required width. Since the dust pack is made, outside the gluing is almost imperceptible.

For work you have to read a lot and I really do not like to read from the computer. I like to keep the book in my hands.

Educational literature is not always available for purchase. Therefore, sometimes I make myself books myself. In this article, I will statenly show all the important moments of the manufacture of a book that will not only be convenient to read but for a very long time to store.

So choose the book that you want to get involved in the printed version.

Without any additional programs, print all the book by dividing it on 26 notebooks. Paper decided to take a good, dense120g / m2. The book plans to be weighty :)

I miss all office processes related to printing and start the sacrament :)

After breaking the book by 26 notebooks, we begin to stitch them. Before that, it is necessary to outline the location of the seam. To do this, we make one not a cunning adaptation called a carriage with which it is quite smoothly picked up in the notebooks of the place of future stitches.

The carriage is represented by two aluminum corners and wooden lies. In the corners, drill holes under the needle on the distance we need and placing the notebook between the corners make punctures.

It turns out quite smoothly and quickly. You can sew on the contreels, but for such a thick book it is not good.

We sew a book for three cords and at the end of the process, add the bottle with alcohol at the end of the process (if you do not have a bottle of alcohol, then the medical book never happens :)

Next is the process of the circulation of the root and its sickness.

Cutting a block of block edge of the block and for the smoothness to be shedding with a shallow fraction of abrasive.

Then I decided to experiment a little and painted the crop of three sides of the paint.

When everything is drying to weaving the captal. The process is creative and laborious. But interesting.

Capital will be two-color.

For the foundation cut off the strip of dense skin.

On the front side I plan to place a symbolic copper bas-relief.

I will not show his creation process, I have a separate detailed master class on the galvanic.

We grow it immediately with several future stamps (electricity economies :)).

Standard processing steel brush and polishing.

The snake was served by my old army pettle.

Now proceed to the cover.

On the cardboard sides, approximately we want what we want :) What is your fantasy for now much.

I chose a carved multi-level lid.

The artist is with me a curve, therefore we draw everything on the computer.

For the cover, I chose a beige haberdashery skin with pearlescent glitter.

With the help of a bone, smooth the skin to the relief on the binding lid.

I will have a book with clasps. Making pupils by type sandwich. Two layers of the skin as on the cover, and between them dense, rigid skin. This is probably more decorative element than the need.

Wasters will cling to the brown buttons built into the front cover.

Copper decoration stick into her niche moment. (Second glue I do not use because of the fact that this infection never glues anything except fingers :)

We send for a day under the press.
  • Fur decorate beetles.
  • Here is the book :)
  • The butterfly is not to the place here, but it did not paint it, grabs my housekeepers :)
  • Thanks for attention.
  • The following restore the old Tomik A.S. Pushkin torn and without a cover.
  • How to overwhelm the book. Two simple ways of binding books and magazines at home
  • I would like to tell about two enough
  • Simple ways of binding magazines and books
  • , as well as individual sheets from various magazines with the articles you need, for example, about cooking. Over time, there will be an excellent library from such journal books. In the years of stagnation, when the good books were shortened, I collected "fiction", published in the magazines "Youth Technique" and "Ural Pathfinder", in which stories you are interested in and the stories printed with continuations. Methods of binding that I want to offer here, I have not met anywhere in the literature. Of course, I did not come up with them myself, but I spied at one specialist from the city of Svaralysk.
  • How to cross the book at home
  • Fig. 1. Block (stack of sheets), clamped between two boards.
  • Usually, when binding, individual sheets are folded into a stack, in which, retreating from the edge of the root, punch, drill or poured holes, and then the sheets are stitched using these holes. However, as a result of such technology, some of the text turns out to be difficult to read, especially on those sheets, the text on which is very close to the edge of the leaf from the root of the future book.

The book formed from the sheets on the proposed technology to some extent is delivered from such a shortage. At the initial stage of binding work and in the same case, the same operations are carried out: there are sheets in a stack, hang them along the lower and front edges, the upper edge can be trimmed later. After all, as you know, sheets are even from one journal, but from different numbers usually do not match the format. Then the stack is compressed using the press, vice or clamps. The simplest version of the clamp is two smooth boards (two corners of metal), pulled from two sides by bolts (Fig. 1). Press the stack (from the root side) in the vice so that the narrowest sheet looks out of the vice for about 5 mm (see Fig. 1). Then the root is then cleaned with a large file, removing strongly protruding edges of the sheets, and then damp with a metal or a jigsaw in the root of the transverse grooves (the number of grooves is at its discretion) to a depth of 1.5 ... 2 mm. This is the main feature of the proposed binding technology. After all, if sheets pierce or drill at such a distance from the edge, the threads inevitably break the edges of the sheets inevitably. So it is possible to have holes from the edge of the unit at least 1 ... 1.5 cm, which will definitely lead to the "capture" of the text.

Fig. 2. Fastening the block sheets with the surface of the feeds invested in the grooves (a), as well as as a result and tightening sheets with one thread (b).

Having made the cuttings, the block (package) is installed with the root up. Next, we are missing the spine with PVA (or aquidate) with a diluted ending, so that it penetrates between the sheets, as well as in the propulsion. Then they are placed in the cuts of a caprochy or other durable thread, so that the ends go beyond the root of approximately 2 ... 3 cm (Fig. 2, a) or (someone like it) tighten the root of one long thread (Fig. 2, b). In conclusion, the whole root is once again cleaved by glue. When the glue dries, the ends of the thread cut and make the block a light cover, that is, they simply glue the cover from thick paper and glue the mousets. (Floats - the first, as well as the last double sheets of the unit connecting it with the cover. - Editor's note.) From such a book, the sheets will not pop up, like from cheap stores in soft covers. This method strengthens and scattered the above-mentioned store books. But still in that and in another case it is better to make hard instead of a soft cover.

Fig. 3. Preparation of the block (stacks) to the binding into a solid cover: 1 - captal; 2 - root material.

In the manufacture of a hard cover on the root of the block, a piece of matter or gauze is pasted using a polyvinyl acetate emulsion, so that the surface of the root of the root of the sidelines 2 ... 3 cm. On the top and bottom edge of the root of the root Tips with roller on the edge (cooked twice by twice the bright clutches). However, you can kapal and not do. Next cut from cardboard two cover covers. The width of each cover should be equal to the width of the glued block. There are many different options for making covers, but I want to offer the most, it seems simple to me.

Cutting the cardboard covers, pick up a beautiful fabric, oilcloth, lederine, etc. From the binding material, the workpiece of the books of the book cut out, not forgetting to provide 2 ... 3-centimeter field allowances from the side of the upper, lower and front edges. The distance between the covers is equal to the width of the root plus 2 × 8 mm (Fig. 4, a). Between the covers on the workpiece from the material you can glue a strip of thick paper or watman (the strip width is equal to the block width). The covers are thoroughly wicked up and glued to the workpiece of the clothes, finding well enough to not have bubbles. The edges of the workpiece wrap up onto the covers (Fig. 4, b), stick to them and dried the finished cover under the press.

Fig. 4. Formation of a solid cover: A - distribution of cover elements on the billet from binding; b - glued cover; 1 - cover; 2 - blank; 3 - Decay.

Next, the previously formed block from the sheets put in the center of the cover (Fig. 5) and glued to the cover covers of the fabric edge covered on the root.

Fig. 5. Plotted block (sheets of sheets) in the cover: 1 - Capital; 2 - root material.

We are preparing two bends, each of which is a white sheet of paper bent in half. One half of the leaf is glued to the lid (Fig. 6), and the other is to the outer sheet of the block, and the forgeds are glued to the sheet not completely, leaving a strip of 1 cm wide without glue, adjacent to the bending of the mouse.

Fig. 6. Blind of Flood.

Everything, the binding is completed, and the book is put under the press. Of course, I do not know professional terms, but it seems to me that I stated everything clearly.

I also want to offer a notebook way of binding magazines. It is somewhat different from the traditional when the holes are formed by the root edges of the magazines, for example, a hole punch, and tighten the magazines with a lace. It is clear, in this case, part of the text is not always possible to read. My notebook is deprived of this shortage, since the entire binding is made on the outside root.

First, all the magazines in the stack are folded and noted in the roots on the line of the place of future punctures (Fig. 7).

Fig. 7. Plugs (marked by points) in the roots of magazines prepared for the binding. In places of punctures also tie nodes, tightening magazines with each other.

  • Then they take the last issue of the magazine and the big needle on the marks is stitched through the middle, forming three or five stitches (Fig.
  • Methods of binding books at home with their own hands

8, a). I note that with such a firmware "native" metal clips of magazines can even be removed. The next magazine laid from above is stitched in the same way, but in the opposite direction. After each firmware, the thread is stretched, removing the backlash (slack). After graduating from the firmware of the second magazine, the thread (with a needle) is associated with the end of the thread sticking out of the lower magazine (Fig. 8, b). It is clear, the third magazine is stitched similarly to the first, and at the end of the seam bind his thread with the thread of the seam of the second magazine, having approached the needle the first stitch seam of this magazine.

Fig. 8. So stack magazines in a stack.

For strength, the threads of the seams of all magazines are in the fields of their input and output (see Fig. 7). In principle, such a key can already use. But it is better to hold the stack of stack in the press (viska) and losing the root with liquid glue PVA. After drying, a durable block is already obtained. And of course, it is better to make a hardcover for a stack, as described above. The edges are desirable to trim, but if the logs are the same, then you can not do this. And then without a workout, the slice will turn out the curve.

All materials section "Ideas Master"

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Binding of books with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions for beginners

Independent manufacture of books, albums and notebooks in a hardcover is not the most common occupation. However, the ability to make a bookcover can be useful, for example, if you want to save and place a printed book. We suggest try making classic books of books quickly and simply do it yourself according to the step-by-step instructions below.

Learning to make high-quality books of books with your own hands in the master class

Required materials and tools:

Two small smooth boards;

two clamps;

Thin mill for working on metal;

Durable white threads;

gauze;

high density cardboard (you can use a thin cardboard glued in 2-3 layers);

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Roller for a bookpore (instead you can use braid);

Color dense paper for the design of the cover;

PVA glue;

scissors;

brush for glue;

stationery knife.

Books are sewn and glued. An independent firmware of the book is a very time-consuming occupation for fulfilling at home. Therefore, we offer the master class on the manufacture of binding for a glued book. Print the book on the printer that we plan to intertwine. Align the resulting paper foot along the edge, carefully tapping it with ends about the flat surface of the table. It is necessary to approach the process with maximum responsibility, since the appearance of the future book will depend on it. The design of the root.

Carefully put a stack of paper on the table with a root to myself so that the edge of the stacks slightly beyond the borders of the table top, and put enough heavy cargo on top. With the help of a brush to the surface, dense PVA glue and leave to dry for a couple of minutes. Then we remove the load and move the stack of sheets a little further from the edge of the table. From above very gently put the board and clamp the resulting design with clamps.

After 3-4 hours, we remove the clamps and move the stack of sheets together with the board in such a way that they go beyond the surface of the table about 2-3 mm. With the help of a pencil, we make transverse markers on the end of the stacks of sheets with the same intervals (in our case 2 cm). Then, according to the marks obtained using a metal pink, we make cuts depth of about 1 mm. It is necessary to ensure that they are strictly perpendicular to sheets of paper.

We prepare gauze and special rollers for the root. We determine the gauze so that its length is about 1 cm less than the root length, and the width is about 4 cm more (2 cm on each side). In the same way, we cut two rollers, but their width must accurately match the width of the root. The edges of the rollers neatly lubricate glue.

Similarly, we make a blank of a strip of paper that will be stuck on the root. Its width must be equal to the width of the root, and the length is 7-8 mm less.

Binding process.

The root of the book is abundantly lubricating PVA so that the glue fell into each made propyl. Insert the thread moistened with glue glue so that their ends are sticking to 2-3 cm on each side. Again, lubricate the spine with threads with glue and on top fix the gauze blank, then the rollers and the last line the paper strip, the maximum tightly pressing each layer with your fingers. The resulting design is left to dry by 8-12 hours.

After drying the glue, we remove the clamps, cut the extra parts of the ropes.

Next, proceed to the manufacture of beads. We will do them from thick paper type Watman (white or color). We make blanks in the size of the future book. The outer edge of the moon must be short enough to be comfortable to glue it.
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Lubricate the strip of the strip in the fold (approximately 3-4 mm) and glue the forboat on the sheet block. Then we turn the blank of the book and in the same way to glue another forcedation. We put the design under the press for a while.

Cover design.

We cut three details from the cardboard: the root and two crusts. Corks should be 8 mm longer than the glued book blank, and in width are equal to it. The root must be in height equal to crusts, and in width - the thickness of the block.

Then choose the paper suitable on the color and the shafts of the workpiece as follows:
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The width of one detail is equal to the width of the root + 8 mm on both sides;

The width of other two parts is equal to the width of the crusts + 2-3 cm on both sides.

We glue the resulting design and cut the corners diagonally. We wist the edge of the paper, bend and glue them to the cardboard, especially carefully pressing the corner of the cover.

To make the cover, you can use a ready-made dust cover, apply an inscription using a stencil or print and paste paper with the necessary information at your discretion. It is widely used in the design of book covers such a technology as scrapbooking: decoration of products with cut or chopped decor elements, paper with unusual ornaments and openwork edges.

Glue the internal unit and cover. We pre-try both details and only after that begin to glue. An error admitted at this stage will be fixed almost impossible.

Lubricate one edge of gauze with glue and press to the surface of the moon. Then Majm PVA is the entire forzatc with gauze. I turn over the book with an empty mowing down and mount the atmosphere to the cover, starting with its edges. Lubricate the gauze glue on the upper side and glue to the muddle, then with the smear of the second boat and glue it in the same way. In order for the surplus of the adhesive not staining the book, it should be laid by unnecessary paper larger. When gluing each workpiece must be monitored so that air bubbles and folds are not formed.

Binding books ready! After the manufacture, it is advisable to put a book for the night under the press.

Much simplifies the process of the manufacture of binding, if the gluing of parts occurs with the help of a thermal oil. In this case, you need to purchase a special typewriter for the thermoclast and actually the thermocons. All outproed workpieces (cover, the root of the book and the mousets) together with the printed paper unit are inserted into the machine and crimped with it. The cover is then glued manually. However, if you do not plan to constantly work with book products, buying a machine will not be appropriate.

Video on the topic

For those who mastered the classic binding of books in a step-by-step lesson with their own hands and wants to continue working with books, the following videos are offered with detailed binding lessons.

This post on 20k + signs will be useful not only to all.

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But - I personally - it would be more convenient to have all the information with a single memo.

Therefore, I will write this note as it would write for myself. Somewhere is unnecessarily in detail and meticulously.

I know that many writers are all that I will write below is well known.

I know that many writers are not interested in seeing their book printed.

I know that for many writers, an independent publication - for various reasons - taboos.

I know that the books of many writers are published by publishers, and only send texts from the authors.

I know that there are those who would be interesting to publish a book on their own, and this post is primarily for them (for us).

Title page

Title leaf, or just "title", comes from the Latin word Titulus (inscription, title).

This is one of the first pages of the book, which precedes the text of the work. In order not to go into details and not to start a separate and interesting conversation about Smuntitulch, which will deliver a lot of difficulties, if you go to the goal and when they are looking at the canon - on the right side, we assume that the title list itself is the first page of the work.

The first odd page. Right part of the reversal. Where the name is written.

There are no rigid requirements for design - no.

You can see in books - there is quite different, someone has a list of books in the series, someone has an illustration, someone has only a name ... anyway - there are more options and fewer rules there.

But K.

Tipping sheet of title

There are quite a lot of requirements. Here are the main output: the name of the author, the name of the book, the place of publication, the name of the publisher, the year of publication, as well as additional information: the names of persons who participated in the publication and everything that serves for the bibliographic description of the book or is such. There are UDCs, BBK, author's sign, Isbn, copywriting and age marking.

If you want to publish your book and want it to be "real", then you must have all these signs.

"True" book from "unreal" is different.

"Real" can be defined in the library. And sell in a bookstore as a "book."

"Unreal" will not take to the library and will not be able to sell in the book as a book. But generally sell - will be able. Only as something else (not all goods in the bookstore are sold with ISBN), but this is a separate and long history of legal incidents, such as age marking, because of which a pregnant woman does not sell a book from the school program.

Regarding the slides: the fields are marked - borders in the layer. In the upper right corner there is a digit 1. It's just a picture number. In the book of these red lines and numbers in the circle should not be.

This post on 20k + signs will be useful not only to all.

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The options for the location of the information may be several. This is one of the examples.

There will be a dozen pictures, where each of these frames is considered more:

No. 1 That's how the title list will look like this:

At first glance it seems that there are quite a lot of information.

All this information is other than ISBN - it is easy to get from the Internet.

Below is shown where to take something from.

№2 Author's Package (UDC, BBK, Author's Sign)

In the upper left corner "Author Package" (UDC, BBK, author's sign).

These three pieces are located in the upper left corner, a little sticking over the fields of the layout.

All these numbers (UDC, BBK, the author's sign) are usually included in the so-called "author's package".

You can buy this "author's package" from any publisher. The price establishes the publisher.

UDC and BBC are usually estimated at 2-3 thousand rubles. ISBN is more expensive, 3-5 thousand rubles.

If you wrote a novel in Russian, you can simply take those UDCs and BBK that I brought.

Or you yourself find this data yourself. Below is described where to take them:

UDC 821.161.1

Universal decimal classification (UDC) - classification system used to systematize works of science, literature and art, periodic printing. This is a widespread classification by which the product genre can be determined. It is clear that all this was especially relevant to the Internet, but the "paper" book is the thing to determine the traditional one.

For my work this number 821.161.1

If you wrote a fictional romance in Russian, then almost certainly this room will come true.

The code goes sequentially:

The work belongs to the language.

It means the first digit = 8;

Namely to literature.

It means that the second is digit = 2;

Namely to the fiction literature in a separate language.

So, the third digit = 1;

Namely in Indo-European language.

It means fourth digit = 1; Namely in Slavic.

It means that the fifth digit = 6;

Namely on East Slavic language.

It means the sixth digit = 1;

This East Slavic language is Russian.

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So, the seventh digit = 1.

TOTAL: 821.161.1

https://classinform.ru/udk/821.161.1.html

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BBK 84 (2 RUSS = RUS) 6

Library-bibliographic classification (BBC) is a library systematization of publications to organize all sorts of catalogs and card files, intended for the organization of library funds, systematic directories and card files (by industry). Apply to the placement of book funds in libraries.

Simply put, this combination of letters and numbers denoted to which section the book include this book, so that it can not be submitted to storage in the appropriate department.

For my work this number 84 (2 RUS) 6

Here is the same system:

These are social / humanitarian sciences.

It means that the first digit will be 6 or 8. So the first digit = 8;

These are philological sciences / literature.
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So, the second digit will be 0 or 4. So the first digit = 4;

These are fantasy, that is, fiction (works).

So, the first digits are still = 84;

These are the literature of Russia.

It means that the following numbers = (2);

Ros - Russian. Rus - in Russian.

If the literature of the nationalities of the Russian Federation, then in brackets instead of "Rus" there will be a reduced designation of the republic / nationality.

And finally, these are the literature of the newest time (after October 1917).

So the last digit = 6.

TOTAL: 84 (2 RUSS = RUS) 6

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https://classinform.ru/bbk/84-2-6.html.

+ About information in brackets:

Foreign literature also begins with 84:

84 (4Bell) - Literature UK. 4 - Europe's literature,

5 - Asia,

6 - Africa,

7 - America.

Internal ciphers in brackets in countries and continents do not change, for example, when the department changes. The principle of internal brackets by country is the same for all departments. For example:

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63.3 (4Bell) - the history of the UK.

63.3 (2 RUS) - History of the Russian Federation, after brackets may be clarified period.

Author's sign

The first letter of the surname + number =

N-67.

The author's sign is determined by the first element of the bibliographic record, according to a special authentic table. Copyrights, of which the table consists, allow you to place books in an accurate alphabetical order, almost without thinking about which of them should be alphabetically before, and what later, and guided only by alphanumeric sequence. Simply put, this is the first letter of the family and a room that the librarian can arrange books in order and not think every time, in what order to place on the shelves Ninson, Nilson, Nisson and Nison.

Here is the table Havkah L. B. in PDF to download them: https://biblio.lib.kherson.ua/files/biblio/file/havkina.pdf

Here is the site where they are given in a single long table:

http://www.ois.org.ua/spravka/yuliya-article/autor-Mark-2015.htm.

For example, I want to publish a book for the name Ninson.

I find the desired letters. This is a line No. 11247.

All whose surnames begin with niminalization will have a copyright sign: H-67.

This name - "Free Text" came up with myself, since there is no name for this text box. Or I did not find it.

If you know, what is the name provided in this window - write, please.

By itself, the information here can be any. Series? Camera series? Illustration on the cover? I recommend to use one of these options:

1) Not to write anything.

2) contact the publishing house ***

3) Make yourself, guided by your sense of the beautiful. 4) Choose a dozen books, which you like the design. And see what they have written there.

№ 4 Bibliographic Description

Immediately under free space or free text there is a "bibliographic description". Bibliographic description is a combination of bibliographic information about the document, its component or a group of documents given in accordance with certain rules and resulting from analytical and synthetic processing of information. If you are interested in more details, I recommend to open this stenguly page document on the link:

GOST R 7.0.100-2018. Bibliographic record. Bibliographic description. General requirements and rules for compiling.

https://www.rsl.ru/photo/ !_ors/5-professional/7_sibid/%D0%93%D0%9E%D0%A1%D0_7_0_100_2018_1204.pdf.

If very short - then here:

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(And no, this is the gap in front of the colon, this is not an error, so it should be).

What I especially advise to pay attention to:

First. In the first paragraph, the name and surname are separated by the comma. In the second - no.

Second. The colon after the city is separated by spaces on both sides.

Third. Pages are reduced as "C", and not as "page".

And under the bibliographic description is ISBN.

We can say what goes under it or what is part of it. It is more convenient for me to write in order to make out what ISBN is, a separate item:

ISBN. 978-5-6045589-1-1

ISBN = International Standard Book Number = International Standard Book Room

This is a unique identification number of the publication. The ISBN system was implemented in order for each book produced in the world could be uniquely identified by assigning a unique code consisting of 13 digits (10 to 2007) in specially grouped and divided by hyphenmi.
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ISBN is a kind of "publication passport", without which the sale and registration of the publication in any book information system is impossible. The same ISBN number cannot belong to various editions. In each country, it is assigned to the book only one state organization.

In Russia, 2020 this is the Russian Book Chamber.

Numbers number 1, 2, 3 = prefix EAN.UCC.

Appeared along with the introduction of barcodes. There are no them on old editions.

Number 4 = country code or group of countries (Russian-speaking countries - 5).
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Numbers number 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 = publisher code.

Numbers number 10, 11, 12 = book code (publication).

Figure number 13 = control for index check.

How to get ISBN yourself?

Unlike all other data, this number is mandatory for the published book.

And, in contrast to all other numbers, this room cannot be just found on the network. In 2020, he is issued to the Book Chamber for 3960 rubles (or it is necessary to buy it at the publisher). http://www.bookchamber.ru/isbn.html. To register in the ISBN system and obtaining an international standard book number, it is necessary to place and send an application by e-mail, which is the basis for registration at the ISBN National Agency. The application form is filled in electronic form, signs by the head of the organization and is fastened. When requesting the ISBN number, an individual must be present. Not fully completed applications are not accepted for execution. The registration process from the moment of filing an application before receiving numbers may take from 3 to 10 business days.

The authors (individuals), who independently prepare their publications to the press, represent the following documents:

1. Scan Applications for individuals on the prescribed form;

2. A copy of the main passport of the passport of a citizen of the Russian Federation and a passport page with registration at the place of residence;

3. Consent to the processing of personal data. Scanned copies of the specified documents sent to email:

[email protected]

When you send all this, you will come receipt. Pay the receipt. And get ISBN.

Now you have ISBN. You.

But not your book.

ISBN is assigned to a specific edition. It will be necessary to get a book (how many copies you did not order) and 16 copies will be taken to the book chamber to consolidate your ISBN for a particular publication. If you printed 1000 books, it's one thing. But, if you printed only 20 or 30, then this is a completely different business. So it makes sense to think if you need this ISBN.

Usually ISBN is needed only if you collect a book in bookstores.

Well, or, for example, to download the cover on Livlib!

Under ISBN is the abstract.

Annotation - Latin word Annotatio "Note".
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Annotation is a summary and - at the same time - a brief description of the book.

How to write cool / selling annotation - a separate topic.

There is rather the fact itself - the abstract should be. Most modern editions have abstract posted on the back cover. But instead of her on the back cover, a drawing or wise saying, a stylish emptiness or a story "On the author" with black and white (like adults) pictures can be placed. But here, in bibliographic data, it should be exactly the abstract.

Approximate Size: 500 characters. Approximate scheme: Hero. Conflict. Purpose.

Who went? Why did you go? What did you do? And why it will be interesting to read.

№ 7 UDC + BBK (double two)
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These are the same numbers, just located now on the right edge, under annotation.

This time they are without a copyright sign. Just two library numbers, each other.

Paragraphs are aligned to the left edge, but the longest string rests on the right field.

Just a double of information elsewhere.

Number 8 copywrites + copyright

© Copyright Sign, is a Latin Literature C (the first letter of the word "Copyright"), placed in the center of the circle.

It can be copied directly from here or dial on the keyboard in Word: (Alt + 0169).

Copyright security sign is used with the name of a physical or legal person who owns rights.

The year of publication is indicated.

A certificate protection object may also be specified (as in the example given).

The initial subject of copyright is always "

individual

, whose creative work created "the work of science, literature or art, as well as other intellectual property -

author

. A lively concrete person (which, apparently reads this text now).

It owns the entire copyright complex - personal non-property rights and exclusive right (property right) to use the work in any form and any non-contrary to the law. The person specified as the author on the original or copy of the work is considered its author, if no other (presumption of authorship) is not proven.

Presumption of authorship:

Technically, if there is my name under the text / picture, this text / picture is considered to be my until the opposite is proven. Obviously, I can lay out someone else's picture, and sign it with my name. And she will be considered mine. So far the author does not prove the opposite. It seems to me that many writing blogs and on the forums on copyright or copyright infringement are missing this important point. Or just do not know about it.

In the frame number 8 (copywrites + copyright)

Maybe how many points of items.

But most often there are two or three items = text + picture + the rest.

Text = writer. Picture = artist. The rest = publisher.

If the writers are somewhat (co-authors), they will be indicated in one point © through the comma of one row. The translators immediately indicate ...

There may be a lot of people here: writers, co-authors, translators, artists.

In addition, everyone can be several people.

Plus Publisher.

But the program is minimum - this is one person. Text author. You.

The absence of a sign does not mean that the work is not protected by copyright, as copyright arises at the time of creating a work. The presence or absence of a sign of copyright protection does not affect the licensing of the work. The sign is needed here to show who owns rights. He does not affect the right.

№9 ISBN once again at the bottom (double two)

It may seem strange, but all library data (UDC / BBC / author's sign / ISBN) are repeated twice in most books. You can make sure yourself. In fact, this is this position (in the lower left corner of the title list) - this is its legitimate, prescribed in the rules.

And if ISBN is given in the book once - then it is here.

If two times, then here and in

Frame number 5.

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If three times, then here in

Frame number 5.

and B.

late book.

In addition, ISBN in any case will be indicated on the cover of the book, where the barcode is where.

No. 10 Age Marking

Age labeling is an extensive and interesting topic.

But if you are very short:

"On the protection of children from information causeing their health and development"

until 6

For information products for children under the age of six years, information products can be assigned information products containing information that does not harm health and (or) the development of children (including information products containing the acquitted genome and (or) the plot of episodic unprofitable image or a description of the physical and (or) mental violence (with the exception of sexual violence), subject to the celebration of good over evil and expressing compassion to the victim of violence and (or) condemnation of violence).

6 - 12 1) short-term and unprofitable image or description of human diseases (with the exception of severe diseases) and (or) their consequences in the form not degrading human dignity; 2) an incredible image or a description of an accident, accident, catastrophe or non-violent death without demonstrating their consequences that can cause fear in children, horror or panic;

3) who do not encourage anti-social actions and (or) an episodic image or a description of these actions and (or) crimes provided that their admissibility is not justified and the negative, condemning attitude towards people who commit them.

12 - 16

1) an episodic image or a description of the cruelty and (or) violence (with the exception of sexual violence) without naturalistic showing the process of depriving a life or injury, provided that the compassion is expressed to the victim and (or) a negative, condemning attitude towards cruelty, violence (except violence used in cases of protecting the rights of citizens and protected by the law of the interests of society or the state);

2) an image or description that do not encourage antisoble actions (including the consumption of alcohol and alcohol-containing products, participation in gambling, vagnetism or begging), episodic mention (without demonstration) of narcotic drugs, psychotropic and (or) infusion substances , tobacco products, provided that the permissibility of antisoble actions is not justified and the admissibility of antisoble actions is not justified, the negative, condemning attitude towards them is indicated for the danger of consumption of these products, agents, substances, products; 3) Not exploiting interest in sex and non-exciting or offensive, episodic unprofitable image or description of the sexual relationship between a man and a woman, with the exception of an image or description of a sexual action. 16 - 18

1) image or description of an accident, accident, disaster, diseases, death without naturalistic impact of their consequences that can cause fear in children, horror or panic; 2) an image or description of the cruelty and (or) violence (with the exception of sexual violence) without naturalistic showing the process of depriving life or application, provided that it is compassionated to the victim and (or) a negative, condemning attitude towards cruelty, violence (except violence applied in cases of protecting the rights of citizens and protected by the law of the interests of society or the state); и 3) information about narcotic drugs or psychotropic and (or) inflating substances (without their demonstration), on the hazardous consequences of their consumption with a demonstration of such cases, provided that a negative or condemant attitude to the consumption of such or substances is also indicated on the danger of their consumption; 4) separate marginal words and (or) expressions that are not related to obscene branch;

5) Not exploiting interest in sex and non-offensive images or description of the sexual relationship between a man and a woman, with the exception of an image or description of a sexual action.

18+ 1) encouraging children to perform actions that pose a threat to their lives and (or) health, including causing harm to their health, suicide, or life and (or) health of other persons, or aimed at declining or other involvement of children in the commission of such actions; 2) able to cause children in children to use narcotic drugs, psychotropic and (or) fading substances, tobacco products, alcoholic and alcohol-containing products, take part in gambling games, engage in prostitution, vagabilities or begging;

3) substantiating or justifying the permissibility of violence and (or) cruelty or prompting to carry out violent effects in relation to people or animals, with the exception of cases provided for by this Federal Law;

3.1) containing an image or a description of sexual violence;
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4) denying family values, promoting non-traditional sexual relations and forming disrespect for parents and (or) other family members;

5) justifying illegal behavior;

6) containing obscene brands;

7) containing information of pornographic nature;

8) on a minor who affected as a result of unlawful actions (inaction), including names, names, patronymic, photo and video of such a minor, his parents and other legal representatives, the date of birth of such a minor, audio recording of his voice, his place of residence or place of temporary Staying, place of his study or work, other information that allows you to directly or indirectly identify such a minor.

9) represented as an image or description of cruelty, physical and (or) mental violence (with the exception of sexual violence), crime or other antisocial action;

10) causing children, horror or panic in children, including the form of non-violent death, disease, suicide, accident, accident or disaster and (or) of their consequences in the form of an image or description in the humiliating human dignity or description;

11) represented as an image or description of sexual relations between a man and a woman;

12) containing parangious words and expressions that are not related to obscene branch.

I think that everyone saw this capacious and visual text.

0 +.

It means that in the book may be unprofitable descriptions of violence (with the exception of sexual), subject to the celebration of goodness over evil. Fox kicked bunny from the hut. The author of the Fox condemns, the hare returns.

6 +.

So, in addition to the unprofitable scenes of violence, a description of human diseases, accidents, as well as non-violent death can be met. Fox kicked out the bunny from the hut, there was a buran on the street, the bunny died of frostbite. The author of the fox condemns.

12 +.

So, the book can meet a description of violence (with the exception of sexual) without a naturalistic showing of the process of deprivation of life and when compassioned the victim; There is a mention of narcotic drugs, but the attitude negative to them is expressed; as well as non-worn exciting character descriptions of sexual relations. I smoked fox cigarette and bunny have sex. Outlou Lisa beat him and kicked out of the hut, there was a buran on the street, the bunny died of frostbite. The author of the fox condemns.

16 +.

So, the above-mentioned sworn words are added. I smoked fox cigarette and bunny have sex. Outlou Lisa called him a fool, beat and drove out of the hut. On the street was Buran, the bunny died of frostbite. The author of the fox condemns.
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18 +.

The smoked fox and bunny have sex. The next morning fox wing with his mat, then killed, the corpse dismembered, the remains scattered around the house, they were sipped with snow, and Buran was. The author do not care.

This is the question of

Should be

Marking and which marking should be.

I would be guided by a simple rule:

Doubt - round. There is a question arises, and not too much blood, it is not too naturally put it, it was not tightened too much ... then it should be rounded towards the next category in order not to injure.

It is assumed that you have already decided on labeling.

Now we are interested,

where exactly necessary to indicate

Age rating books?

Marking 18+

Contains obscene absentee

Mandatory must stand on the front side of the cover and in the output. In addition, when selling printed copies, such books must be packed in the film.

Each home library owner will certainly have several favorite publications, which he has read more than once and reread. Frequent appeal to books does not add "Health" to them - replete bounds, pages are polluted.

The book loses its original gloss, but it does not lose its attractiveness. And now the moment comes when the owner of the publication wants to restore him, and then the question is how to make a binding for the book with your own hands, becomes relevant.

Production of bookbinding book at home

Books are different - usual multi-page editions in solid crankhorov or in soft bindings, homemade, printed on the printer, handwritten. And the bindings are different - stitched or glued, soft folders, folders - depending on whom and how the book was produced.

Required tools for the manufacture of binding for the old book do it yourself

But sometimes you need to make a binding of the book with your own hands, and for such that the binding was, but it became unusable. The quality of such a binding will be slightly lower than that professionally performed on special equipment, but it will be your brainchild, made with love, and designed as you want.

Before proceeding with work, you will need to prepare the appropriate tools and materials for binding of books with your own hands:

  1. White paper sheets or tracing Format A4, in the amount of 32 pieces;
  2. Book glue or PVA glue;
  3. glue pistol;
  4. corrugated cardboard;
  5. marker;
  6. leather, felt, fabric (any material suitable);
  7. Stapler with long shoulder;
  8. Dense rubber ring for fixing paper;
  9. acute knife or scalpel;
  10. Metal ruler;
  11. Large stationery clips.

Prepare all the materials and tools, you can start collecting the hardcover of the book with your own hands.

Solid Binding of the Book Your Hands - Step-by-step instructions

First of all, four solid blocks should be made. 32 sheet paper (tracing) divide into four parts, eight sheets in each. Thoroughly align sheets in each pack, and carefully recycle each pack in half.

Go to your fingers in the collar to fix it. Take over all four stacks and turn them over to the opposite side.

Stapler with a long shoulder to bore an octastic stack along the fold line. If there is no stapler with a long shoulder, you can use the usual stapler.

In the case of the application of a standard stapler, the pages should be copped with both external and the inner side. Cut a piece of fabric equal to the size of the sheet height.

In e-books, the age marking should stand on the cover, on the first page of the book either in information data (metadata book in the product card in the online store).

Solid binding manufacturing scheme for old book

When applying glue, you must carefully follow so that it does not get intoward, between the sheets.

On the side to attach a carved piece of fabric. It must be done before dried down the glue.

To fit the sizes of the stack under the size of the book, it should, if necessary, carefully trim the scalpel on the metal line. Put a stack on the cardboard, mark the circuit marker on the cardboard, retreating five millimeters for each edge.

Cut cardboard and make some more such copies. Separately prepare a cardboard rectangle under the size of the end of the book.

All cardboard parts lay out on the fabric. Stand on the border tissue with a width of 25 millimeters and cut the material.

Apply glue to cardboard, and put it on the fabric - a crust - the face - crust. Between all the details there must be an equal interval.

What's next?

Next you need to smear the edges of the fabric and sequentially glue them to the cardboard. Then to the sides close to the end cardboard, glue two strips of cotton paper and apply glue on them.

To put a text block on the end card. It will not stick to the end cardboard, but only to paper stripes.

While the glue will dry, you need to fix the design in a vertical position. Actually, on this, the manufacture of solid binding can be considered completed.

Fastening a book in grinding books for binding

Cosmetic work remained. First of all - the substrate. You need to choose the appropriate paper, lubricate the inner side of the solid cover and the first sheet of the text block.

This operation should be done on both sides. In this example, a tissue was used for solid binding.

But you can also make a binding for a book from felt with your own hands. A little more difficult because of the invoice, but the leather binding of the book is made on the same technique.

Soft binding for a book with your own hands - how to make

Unlike solid, make a mild cover with their own hands much easier.

Required tools for making soft binding for book at home

For its manufacture, you will need tools and materials that are used to repair book bindings with their own hands:

  • marker;
  • cutter;
  • glue;
  • glue pistol;
  • dense (glossy) cover paper;
  • line;
  • clamps;
  • Two boards;
  • iron;
  • scissors.

Prepare everything you need can be started.

Making soft binding

The embroidered text unit should be smoothly put on the board and carefully align the edges for a ruler. On top and bottom of the text block, put on a clean sheet of page pages format.

The edges of these leaflets that perform the functions of the drafts are leveled under the ruler. From above on the text unit gently put the second board, watching not the moves of individual parts and leaves.

Making sure that the text block lies between the boards smoothly, clamp the design of the clamps. The text block is fitted between the boards so that approximately half acemeter the root is free, outside the boards.

With the help of adhesive gun, apply a thick layer of glue on the root. The layer thickness should be from two to three millimeters.

Soft Binding Making Algorithm for Book

The glue layer should be uniform, so it should be quickly dissolved either by the pistol itself or a piece of smooth plastic. This operation should be done quickly so that the glue does not have time to grab.

The next stage is the preparation of the cover. Initially, the thickness of the text block is measured.

From the axial line of the cover sheet to postpone left and right at half the measured thickness of the root. To spend two straight lines parallel to the axial.

Add one more centimeter on each side. Putting on the resulting line a ruler, carefully bend the cover of the cover.

For consolidation, it should be safely spent several times with a stupid side of the scissors along the fold line. After the glue is dry, gently separate the sheets-drafts.

Insert the glued text block into the cover and secure the brackets. Install the iron work surface up, turn it on and warm it well.

It is evenly to warm the root until the cover is reliably glued to it. Final operation - cropping covers from three sides under the format of the text block.

Conclusion

The described methods are the simplest, but not the only ones. Using these ways, you can shelter your hands the binding of leather books.

If your library has dilapidated editions in both solid and soft bindings, then the described methods can make a complete restoration of books of books with their own hands.

Video: how to make a book binder

The snake was served by my old army pettle.

Printed books Rating 0+, 6+, 12+ and 16+ should stand

in output

And they can duplicate on the cover at the request of the author / publishing house.

And - according to the spirit of the law - it is worth doing this.

№11 Location: Fields and Alignment

  • You can take the published books in your hands and make sure that it is not necessary at times.
  • Someone lines so, someone Syak, someone writes UDC and BBC once, someone does not make a callout by the author's sign, etc. But - the feeling arises - that this is not a certain idea, to make this way. And just done, as I had to.
  • In most normal publishers, it will be like in the picture.
  • Fields, alignment, tuning - marked with red lines.
  • How to cross the book at home
  • Fig. 1. Block (stack of sheets), clamped between two boards.
  • Left for the fields are:
  • , as well as individual sheets from various magazines with the articles you need, for example, about cooking. Over time, there will be an excellent library from such journal books. In the years of stagnation, when the good books were shortened, I collected "fiction", published in the magazines "Youth Technique" and "Ural Pathfinder", in which stories you are interested in and the stories printed with continuations. Methods of binding that I want to offer here, I have not met anywhere in the literature. Of course, I did not come up with them myself, but I spied at one specialist from the city of Svaralysk.
  • 1. UDC + BBK + author's sign (top of page);
  • 2. Author's sign (mid page);
  • 3. ISBN (bottom page).
  • So it should be.

Logic is this: so more convenient to the librarian, it is easier to find the necessary information about the eyes.

Moreover, the title sheets look different. Annotations can be different. Free text. Enumeration of participants. Well, all this can be aggravated by another names in the original language if the book is transferable. And so immediately understandable.

  1. Right to the fields are shifted:
  2. 1. A set of UDC + BBK (mid page);
  3. 2. Copyright (bottom pages).
  4. The longest lines of paragraphs rest in the right field.
  5. Usually the lines themselves are aligned to the left edge.
  6. Age marking can be anywhere (just on this page somewhere).
  7. №12 Title sheet turnover with output:
  8. TOTAL.
  9. You must have 9 information blocks.

In order to fill them correctly, you will need:

Learn UDC, BBK, author's sign.

Buy ISBN in the Book Chamber or Publishing.

  1. Know the name of the author, the name of the book, the city and the year of publication.
  2. Write an annotation (hero, conflict, goal) for 500 characters.

Decide on those who own the rights to text and everything else.

Select an over-age marking option: 0+, 6+, 12+, 16+, 18+. (Round!)

After the layout, to understand the exact number of pages (in this particular edition).

And correctly position the data in these nine windows, as shown on slides 1 - 12.

Thank you.

I am glad if this information is useful to someone and save time and strength.

Binding of books with your own hands: a simple way to create a book from scratch

How to make a binding for a book with your own hands: solid and soft cover option

Choosing a cloth for binding work, you need to keep in mind that the fabric should be dense and thick. A large stationery clip or rubber ring fasten the sheets of stacks. Put a stack vertically on the side, and put glue on the upper side.

Many people are fond of not reading, but writing their works (prose and poems). As soon as work on literary creation ends, the question immediately arises how to overwhelm the book with their own hands at home. Binding books at home is also interested in those who download literature from the Internet and prints it on sheets A4. In fact, it is not so difficult to arrange the book, as it seems at first glance. Moreover, there are many ways to cope with this task on their own.

Hard cover

All people who had to order binding books in the workshop, admit that such a service is worth a lot of money. But if you learn to intertwine printed editions with your own hands with the help of girlfriend, you can save significantly.

Binding book with your own hands

First of all, a method should be considered that allows you to make a hardcover for a thick book. What will you need:

Metal Pilling;

2 boards;

2 clamps;

paper knife;

Thick sewing threads of white or rope;

The material that resembles a dense gauze (such a jacket boards);

Dense cardboard;

Color paper that will be used to design a book cover;

Capal.

All you need for independent binding

The work on the creation of binding consists of such steps:

The preparatory stage, without doubt, can be called the most responsible, because all pages will have to align, of which the book will be. To align the edges, you should take a pile of pages and knock it on a solid surface several times. Aligned along the edges of the page need to be put on the board, and the root of the future book should "look" on the masters. The edge of the stack should be slightly played over the edge of the working surface.

The stack should be very careful, so as not to knock her down, put some weightlifier. Then you should take a brush, dip it in PVA glue and thickly lubricate the root of the future book.

After 2-3 minutes after the glue slightly snacks, you need to remove the weightlifier from the stack, and then push the pile of pages from the edge of the working surface so that it does not send anymore. After a stack, you should put the second board, tightly compress all two clamps. Everything needs to be left in such a state for 3-4 hours. This time is necessary so that PVA glue is completely dry.

After removing the clamps, it is necessary to re-move the stacks with the boards to the edge of the surface, and so that the board protrudes over the edge of the table by 3 cm. At the same time, the paper stack should appear over the edge of the boards by 2 millimeters. It should be fixed again with clamps.

Next, take a pencil and spread the sticking edge to them. There should be several two-chamber intervals. Then you need to take a pylon for the metal and inscribe these markup tools (the size of each propyl should not exceed 1 millimeter). All feeds should be the same.

At this stage of work, glue, brush and rope take. The thickness of the latter should be such that it is tightly entered into the cuts. If the threads are used instead of the rope, then you need to twist the likeness of the rope.

We proceed to the cutting of gauze and therapy. The length of the pieces of gauze should be 1 cm shorter than the root of the book. Marley width should be equal to the width of the root, but it should add 2 centimeters on the sides. You should also separate 2 kaptsal (the width of each coincides with the width of the root). The edges of the capotyls need to be slightly lubricated with glue. You should also prepare a strip of paper. Its length will be 7 millimeters less than the length of the root. The width of the strip is similar to the width of the root.

Take a brush, dip it in glue and begin to be densely to apply it on the root with the propellants done. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the glue fell into each propyl. The rope or twisted threads also need to be soaked with glue. In each propyl need to insert the rope, but so that its ends protrude by 2-3 centimeters. For these tips, you need to pull well so that the rope (harness) is fixed in propyl. Then, on the root, you need to apply glue, stick after that gauze, and after - the captives. On top of the coupling should be applied again and paste a strip of paper. Paper carefully smoothed to the root of the future book. The glue will dry throughout the night. As soon as it dries, we can assume that the inside of the binding is ready.

At this stage, the design of the book in the binding you need to remove the clamps and trim the tips of the rope (the harness of the threads).

After the work done, you can proceed to the manufacture of beads. They can be made from both monophonic and colored paper. How to determine the size of the mow? The answer is simple - if the book is performed in the A5 format, then the forcedation must have A4 format folded in half. At the same time, the outer edge of the mall should be a little shorten, because the ends of the ropes protruding near the root will interfere with the sticking of the mow.

Before sticking the forged, you should make sure that it has correct dimensions. After that, you need to lubricate the band by glue near the bend and stick it on the block. The same should be done with the second side of the book. After almost the finished binding, you need to put a weight loss and engage in creating the cover.

How to make a cover?

First of all, you should do a cardboard that will play the role of the cover seal. First of all, it needs to be uncalled. On the cardboard sheet, 2 crusts and spine should be placed. The width of the crusts should be equal to the width of the blocks, while their length should on each side exceed the length of the block by 4 millimeters. How to cut decorative paper: in height, it must be 2-3 centimeters longer than crusts (on each side). The width of the cover for the cover should on each side exceed the root of 8 millimeters. As for gluing, it should be performed as follows: one side of the crustaceans and the root is smeared with glue, after which they are glued and pressed. The edges of the paper are then cut down diagonally with an indent of 4 millimeters from the corner.

The protruding edges are then lubricated with glue, bend them on their crusts, smooth. Then it is necessary to put a weight loss on the cover, which in 1 hour can be removed. Make up the cover, guided by personal preferences. It can be decorated with applications, glossy paper, bulk compositions, etc.

other methods

If the book is fine, then its design in the binding will be simpler. For example, if the book consists of forty-sheets (or eighty pages), then the sheets need to be folded in half and sew them in the middle by a swivel stapler. Such a book will remind a school notebook.

You can also buy a thick notebook on springs with perfectly clean sheets. The spring should be removed, and on clean sheets to print a book, after which it is back to tail them. For this, the spring must be gently clipped with fingers, pressing on each of its tooth.

There is another method of manufacturing a book, but first of all the printer should print pages from which it will consist. Then you need to divide everything into several stacks consisting of 20 pages. With the help of the hole, you should make holes in the pages. The holes must be at the same distances from each other, otherwise the book will turn out to be a curve. After it is recommended to prepare a dense folder-folder, sheets into which are sewn with metal brackets. When you buy such a folder, you should pay attention to the sizes of the bracket - all sheets should not be sewn in principle, otherwise the book will be difficult to use.

If a person has often to make reels for books, then for this work it is recommended to purchase special equipment, for example, a typewriter for the manufacture of bindings, equipped with plastic springs. There is such a machine no more than thirty dollars. The equipment can sew up to five hundred sheets, and it is very simple to use it. You can also find cars that cross the sheets on the springs from the metal, but they will be more expensive. In addition, machines with metal springs can sew up to 130 sheets 1 time.

For the manufacture of books, you can also purchase an apparatus called metalund. The device can sew a maximum of 600 sheets at a time. It is worth such equipment no more than two hundred dollars. The device tightly compresses the pages with metal brackets along the block. By the way, the metals brackets can be repeatedly used. After connecting the metal bracket can be used to firmware other books.

From the listed ways of registration of books in the bounds, everyone can choose for themselves optimal!

Needlework

I decided to somehow try myself in online commerce, I downloaded a bunch of e-books, stopped on one very good and sufficiently volumetric number of sheets (400 pages).

Read this all from a computer monitor is not very convenient and the eyes quickly get tired + in the printed book you can make marks and records. And in general, read the printed book is much more pleasant.

I decided to print an e-book and make a hardcover. I had an e-book in the .Dejvu format

The most important thing to print pages as it is necessary. Print Settings:

Printing 2 pages on one side of the A4 sheet is a format A5.

We make the necessary fields in order to be able to sew. I also made a markup - a vertical line between sheets, for the convenience of cutting a sheet A4 in half.

Print sheets from two sides. But before I experimented a little, to print everything as it should be printed. Each sheet I fed to the printer in manual mode. I left for it somewhere 20-30 minutes.

We cut the sheets on and we sort on the pages.

Next, cut the sheets and fluently believe whether they are sorted correctly. I sorted them at the cutting stage.

Less stack of sheets. We got everything separately (not notebooks).

We proceed to bonding sheets among themselves in the book block.

For this we will need a small, naturally, homemade press and PVA glue.

  • The press, as you see, I made 2 pieces of floorboards and 2-spree (from the car), in general from what was at hand.
  • It looks like as shown in the photo.
  • How to cross the book at home
  • Stack of sheets align and clamp in the press. The side, which is to be crosslinking abundantly, we wash the plow glue several times and give adhesion to completely dry. This is done to initially braid sheets and easier worked with the block. After the sickness, it takes some time drying.
  • Next, we need a jigsaw, thick threads (they are also called technical), PVA glue, fabric (up to this point I prepared and cut from the fabric root).
  • We take our workpiece of the book, and where the first time was sicked, make feeds to the depth of 3-4 mm.
  • I absolutely impregnated with PVA glue and pushed tightly into the cuts.
  • After it finished with threads, it was richly missed this surface with glue. Fabric imposed on adhesive and pressed tightly. The fabric on top wrapped with glue.
  • In this form, I all laid in a warm place.
  • 2. Author's sign (mid page);
  • It remains to make bells and the cover.

Since I do not have a book and clean for myself, I decided not to bother with a solid cover, but I used the cover from the old book of a suitable size.

After drying, the outer edge of the book block must be trimmed to pour sheets, make the mourning and glue the cover.

The edge of the book is cut without removing from the press, laying a piece of plywood for stiffness.

Forsets I did, again, from what was at hand - from dense trendy paper (where the business cards were printed) - 2 sheet A4. You can from Watman.

Rolling the sheets of paper in half, I glued them like this: the first turn with one side in the first sheet of the book (and the second side is for gluing to the cover, it is gliding a little later). I did the same with the latest reversal of the book.

What was printed on the visit paper - went inside, so not visible all this disgrace :).

We are waiting for a bit when the glue will dry off, after which we stick the cover.

The root along with the first turn of the book is glued to the cover.

After all these manipulations, I put a book for several hours for a big stack of other books.

Dried! The book is ready!

Footscape stuck well, smoothly.

The cover speaks about many ...

In general, it turned out pretty funny!

The book about trading on Forex, and on the cover of the inscription: "Pioneer library, personal happiness, etc. ..."

Cover for many years ...

5 comments for "how to make a book binding"

Everything is correct - when there are so magazines intertwined during ,, book hunger. One note-block boundaries are still falling apart much faster than those who are sewn.

Book About Forecse? It would be better to leave the old text ...

The block does not suit this cover! In this lid (cover) there was a book much more by the vibration of notebooks! Footscape is glued at the base of the block by 2-3 mm with an indent! I wonder, and with the full disclosure of the block, the threads are visible?

Thank you. It was very interesting to watch. Respect.

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How to overwhelm the book yourself?

Binding books at home is considered time consuming and at the same time interesting and creative occupation, which provides the ability to independently issue a new book, notebook or album. Learn this craft is easy and accessible to every lover of needlework.

Methods of binding

There are several ways to fulfill book binding. And each of them has both its advantages and disadvantages. For example, the gluing method of the book block is much easier, but the quality may not be sufficiently reliable. The firmware of books and notebooks is considered a more time-consuming occupation, but unlike gluing more reliable.

  1. An acceptable way to update the books is considered to fasten the block to feed for the threads, while the process takes much less time, and the result achieved will delight the work done. Before starting binding work, it is important to get acquainted with the device of the book.
  2. Necessary materials and tools
  3. Before proceeding with work, prepare materials and tools that will be needed in the process of creativity:
  4. Smooth boards - two pieces;
  5. Lobzik or hacksaw;
  6. line;
  7. Tassel;

stationery knife;

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